In an era where industrialization threatens to homogenize the world's flavors, a Paraguayan farm stands firm in its mission to revive a proud culinary heritage: authentic, handcrafted Paraguayan cheese, the thick and yellow Kesu Paraguay.
In the heart of the Chaco region, Rafael Helman and his family are undertaking a project that combines tradition, passion, and resilience. Producing 150 kilograms of cheese per week using traditional recipes, they are not merely providing food but preserving a cultural legacy.
"Traditional Paraguayan cheese is made from raw milk and pasteurized at a low temperature of 70 degrees Celsius over an espinillo wood fire. This preserves its taste, creaminess, fat content, and characteristic yellow color," explains Helman, revealing his strong belief in safeguarding this heritage. As the owner of La Catalina farm, he emphasizes, "The recipe for Paraguayan cheese must not disappear. It is a cultural heritage that needs to be protected. Just as cheeses in Europe receive protected designation of origin, Paraguayan cheese should be designated as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity."
La Catalina prioritizes quality over quantity, insisting on retail distribution rather than expanding production scale. Avoiding mass production and industrialized processes, they pasteurize raw milk from their own cows over an espinillo wood fire to preserve its deep flavor and unique texture. Crucially, they retain the cream to maintain the cheese's distinctive yellow hue and rich fat content. Kesu Paraguay made in this way embodies a true flavor and identity that no factory-made cheese can imitate.
The Revival of Tradition Brought by the Pandemic
The story of La Catalina began by chance. During the height of the pandemic, Rafael Helman and his wife moved to Bajo Chaco seeking tranquility. They purchased a small plot of land, 12x30 meters, but lockdowns, a lack of essential goods, and a desire to return to basics led them to start a business.
They began raising cows and chickens, producing milk, eggs, and cheese. The land expanded, guard dogs became part of the family, and today, an exemplary farm that symbolizes resilience and organic production was born. This wasn't merely a choice for survival, but an opportunity to rediscover the value of self-sufficiency and traditional methods. The crisis brought by the pandemic, paradoxically, reminded the Helman family of the importance of forgotten traditional agriculture, which soon developed into a successful model positively impacting the local community.
From Chaco to the World: The Dream of 'Paraguayensis Kesu Hovy'
Helman didn't stop at traditional Kesu. Inspired by legendary European cheesemakers, he ventured into a new realm: organic blue cheese naturally fermented with Penicillium roqueforti mold.
"After 15 days of battling shadows, cold, and fermentation, we achieved our first victory," he recalls in an epic tone. Helman now showcases blue cheese produced entirely by hand, stating, "We are still far from conquering the great legend, the first Paraguayensis kesu hovy, which is unprecedented in ancient records." 'Kesu hovy' means 'blue cheese' in Guarani, signifying his ambitious goal of creating a unique Paraguayan blue cheese using distinct molds grown in Paraguay's soil and climate. This endeavor is seen as an effort to broaden the spectrum of Paraguayan cheese and establish its own unique standing in the global cheese market.
A Living Heritage
La Catalina farm does not pursue mass production. Their goal is clear: as small-scale producers, to remain true to the recipe, the espinillo wood fire, the raw milk, and the taste that connects them to their roots.
"I believe Paraguayan cheese should become an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, like regional cheeses in Europe. It is part of our identity," Helman reiterates. He emphasizes that Paraguayan cheese is a source of national pride and a cultural symbol. This perspective conveys a message to the Paraguayan government and its people that they must protect and develop their unique food culture.
While the world moves fast, La Catalina moves slowly. And with every step, it leaves traces of Paraguay's taste, history, and pride. Thus, in the heart of Chaco, true Paraguayan cheese is returning to our tables. Infused with soul, flavor, and identity. Helman adds that communication with interested individuals is 100% done via their X (formerly Twitter) account (@lacatalinapy).
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