The humble bindaetteok, a savory pancake made from ground mung beans, holds a unique place in Korean culinary history, its very name hinting at a deeper connection to sustenance rather than mere side dish. Unlike other pan-fried delicacies categorized as 'jeon' (전), bindaetteok is often referred to as 'tteok' (떡), a term typically reserved for rice cakes and other substantial, meal-like preparations. This linguistic distinction suggests that bindaetteok, particularly in the hearts and memories of older Seoulites, was more than just a flavorful accompaniment; it served as a filling and affordable meal, a comforting staple that evokes nostalgic memories of simpler times and communal gatherings.
To understand this designation, one must delve into the historical and social fabric of Seoul, particularly before the rapid modernization of the 1980s. Prior to Gangnam's emergence as a symbol of affluence, the area within the four main gates (사대문 안) truly represented the heart of Seoul. For those living in the outskirts, venturing "downtown" invariably meant heading towards the Jongno, Myeongdong, and Mugyo-dong areas, centered around the Gwanghwamun intersection. This was the nucleus of commerce, where jobs could be found and information disseminated. Since the Joseon Dynasty, this inner-city area served as Seoul's vital hub.
The Korean War, however, ravaged Seoul, leaving a landscape of devastation. The remnants of Japanese colonial modernity were shattered, and the pervasive destruction served as a constant reminder of the conflict. Yet, paradoxically, the subsequent rebuilding of Seoul was fueled by an influx of people who had no memory of the city's pre-war appearance. Even long-time residents were compelled to prioritize survival over dwelling on the ruins.
In the pre-1980s era of rapid economic growth and a burgeoning restaurant industry, dining options within the four gates were modest. Simple fare like baekban (set meals with rice), gukbap (rice soup), seolleongtang (ox bone soup), and jajangmyeon (black bean noodles) were the staples. The concept of establishing elaborate restaurants on main thoroughfares was unimaginable due to the limited number of people who could afford expensive menus. Consequently, eateries nestled themselves in the back alleys. Turning off the main streets revealed clusters of small restaurants operating side-by-side. Within the four gates, a network of narrow alleyways existed, a stark contrast to the grand avenues of the Joseon era, which were primarily for the nobility. The Pimatgol alley, a narrow passage running parallel to Jongno Street from Gwanghwamun to Dongdaemun, exemplifies these historic byways. Its name, meaning "avoiding horses," possibly alluded to commoners yielding way to the gentry. Many noblemen traveled in palanquins, further emphasizing the social stratification reflected in the city's layout.
These back-alley restaurants within the four gates functioned as both eateries and drinking establishments. Catering to a clientele who couldn't afford separate meals and drinks, this dual purpose was a natural adaptation. Menus often featured dishes that could accompany alcohol, such as sulguk (a clear soup served with alcohol) alongside gukbap, or bbyeo-daeguijjim (spicy braised pork ribs) alongside seolleongtang. It was within this culinary landscape that bindaetteok found its place, not as a specialty, but as one of the various affordable options available. One could find it alongside gukbap, baekban, or jokbal (pig's trotters).
Bindaetteok, a pancake made from ground mung beans and typically fried in pork fat, was a common dish throughout the Korean peninsula, owing to the abundance of mung beans. This hardy crop thrived even in rough terrain, requiring minimal cultivation. Its resilience mirrored the tenacity of the common people during the Joseon era. The nickname of Jeon Bong-jun, the leader of the Donghak Peasant Revolution, as "Nokdu Janggun" (Mung Bean General) likely stemmed not only from his small stature but also from the symbolic association of mung beans with the common populace.
Various theories exist regarding the etymology of "bindaetteok." A popular explanation suggests it originated from "bindae-tteok" (빈대떡), meaning "tteok for guests" (賓待), signifying a dish used to welcome and treat visitors. Another common theory proposes "binja-tteok" (빈자떡), or "tteok for the poor" (貧者), which evolved into bindaetteok. A more linguistically grounded theory traces its roots to the old Korean term "bingja" (빙자), believed to be a variant of the Hanja term 餠藷 (byeongjeo), referring to flat cakes made from ground grains like wheat, corn, or sorghum. This "bingja" then supposedly transformed into "binja" and finally "bindae." A less credible, almost comical theory suggests a connection to bedbugs ("bindae" in Korean), claiming it was a popular dish in bedbug-infested neighborhoods. However, the most intriguing aspect of the name is the suffix "tteok" rather than "jeon."
Korean culinary tradition includes a category of "jijineun tteok" (지지는 떡), or "pan-fried rice cakes." This category encompasses dishes like bukkumi (sweet glutinous rice pancakes), noti (sesame seed pancakes), hwajeon (flower pancakes), chongtteok (buckwheat crepes), gwonjeonbyeong (thin vegetable pancakes), juak (glutinous rice fritters), and sanseung (wild vegetable pancakes). Since their primary ingredients are grains like rice, glutinous rice, sorghum, and buckwheat, even when pan-fried, they were classified as "tteok." Interestingly, these "jijineun tteok" often do not explicitly include the "tteok" suffix in their common names, with hwajeon being a notable example.
Bindaetteok, despite regional variations, typically involves pan-frying a batter containing ground mung beans, vegetables, and sometimes meat, a preparation and appearance similar to other jeon like pajeon (scallion pancake), kimchi jeon (kimchi pancake), or gogi jeon (meat pancake). It is even categorized as a type of jeon on ancestral rites tables, and bindaetteok restaurants often prepare it alongside other jeon. While it is sometimes referred to as nokdu jeon (mung bean pancake), nokdu bindaetteok, or bindaedeon, the majority of people across most regions call it bindaetteok.
Given the abundance of mung beans in Korea during the Joseon Dynasty, bindaetteok was likely an easily prepared and affordable dish. It is plausible that it was sold in Joseon-era markets. The name "bindaetteok" frequently appears in literature from the 1920s, suggesting it was the common term used during that period as well. The choice of "tteok" over "jeon" likely stems from the fact that bindaetteok served as a meal. Traditionally, tteok was considered a substantial food, akin to rice, and thus, even a pan-fried preparation made from ground mung beans could be classified as bindaetteok if it served as a primary source of sustenance. During the Japanese colonial era and after the Korean War, bindaetteok likely continued to be sold in Seoul's back alleys as an affordable and filling meal, often enjoyed with a cup of makgeolli (rice wine) as a simple repast.
Even today, many bindaetteok restaurants persist in the narrow alleyways within Seoul's four gates. Despite the redevelopment of Pimatgol, the long-standing bindaetteok establishments in those alleys have relocated to other hidden corners, carrying on their tradition. The patrons of these restaurants, much like the establishments themselves, are often older Seoulites who still consider the area within the four gates the true heart of the city and Gwanghwamun its central hub. They gather over plates of bindaetteok and glasses of makgeolli, the close arrangement of tables creating a lively atmosphere filled with overlapping conversations. The savory aroma of pork fat mingles with the slightly sour scent of makgeolli, evoking the ambiance of a festive gathering. These "old" Seoulites might momentarily feel transported back to the courtyards of their childhood homes, perhaps even mistaking Seoul for their enduring hometown, and perhaps even romanticizing the humble origins and enduring appeal of bindaetteok.
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