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The final quarter of the year has proven to be a fertile ground for Portland’s ever-evolving restaurant landscape. From a Washington, D.C. pizza veteran planting roots downtown to a vegan revival and an intimate French-inspired bistro, the city’s recent wave of openings speaks volumes about its resilience, diversity, and unwavering commitment to farm-to-table ethics and unique culinary narratives. This report takes an in-depth look at the stories behind the most notable establishments to recently debut in the Rose City.

Edan Pizza: Downtown’s Slice of D.C. Pedigree

The headline-grabbing arrival of Edan Pizza at 204 SW Yamhill marks a significant moment for downtown Portland's food revival. Edan MacQuaid, the eponymous owner, is not a newcomer to the craft; he honed his skills serving acclaimed pies at Washington D.C. institutions like RedRocks and the highly respected 2 Amys. MacQuaid's move to the Pacific Northwest brings a meticulous, East Coast-trained approach to pizza-making, filling the sizable void left by the departure of Mod Pizza in the location.

MacQuaid is deliberate in his culinary philosophy. While inspired by the canonical Neapolitan tradition—the high hydration dough, the use of quality ingredients—he consciously departs from a strict interpretation. His pies are described as “close-to Neapolitan,” a term that speaks to a longer bake time and a cooler oven temperature than the blistering 90-second inferno typical of true Neapolitan certification. This technique results in a crust that is less leopard-spotted and overtly charred, offering a firmer, more structurally sound base that is both chewy and crisp—a style catering perfectly to the demanding, dynamic environment of a bustling urban lunch crowd. Initial reviews praise the balance of his San Marzano tomato sauce and the quality of his imported buffalo mozzarella, suggesting Edan Pizza is poised to become a serious player in a city already saturated with excellent pizza options. MacQuaid’s commitment to locally-sourced vegetables and cured meats further anchors his establishment in Portland’s core ethos. The mid-to-late October opening has already drawn consistent lines, signaling a strong start.

The Dual Identity of NE 30th: Gabby’s Expands the Gabbiano’s Vision

In Northeast Portland, the story is one of successful organic expansion. Gabbiano’s, a neighborhood staple, has seamlessly absorbed the adjacent former Lil’ Dame space to create Gabby’s at 5425 NE 30th Avenue. This strategic move, finalized on December 1, is more than just an increase in seating capacity; it’s a focused attempt by restaurateur Blake Foster to diversify the dining experience.

Gabby’s serves as a dedicated locale for lunch and private events, effectively allowing the original Gabbiano’s to maintain its intimate dinner focus. Foster, speaking to the Portland Business Journal, defined the lunch menu as “Gabbiano’s-inspired,” translating the sophisticated Italian-American flavors of the flagship into accessible, daytime fare. The menu is centered on specialty focaccia pizzas—thicker, square-cut squares of pillowy dough topped with seasonal ingredients—alongside hearty, rotating soups designed for easy take-out or a quick, comfortable sit-down meal. This expansion addresses a growing demand for high-quality, reliable midday options in the neighborhood, solidifying the establishment's role as a culinary anchor on NE 30th Avenue.

Dream Deli: A Harmonious Cultural Marriage on SE Division

The opening of Dream Deli on Friday, November 28, at 3542 SE Division Street, introduces a unique cultural confluence to Portland’s deli scene. Couple John Bissell and Jessie Levine have masterfully blended the hearty traditions of Jewish and Italian deli classics, a concept that feels both nostalgic and refreshingly innovative.

Bissell’s background, just down the street at the now-closed, highly-regarded Ava Gene’s, provides a framework of ingredient-driven excellence. However, at Dream Deli, he shifts focus from regional Italian dining to the comforts of deli fare. The menu is a respectful exploration of classics: corned brisket stacked high on marbled rye, the rich, savory filling of Reuben knishes, and the delicate complexity of a whitefish melt. This approach transcends simple fusion; it's a celebration of two immigrant culinary histories, executed with a chef’s precision. Levine's influence ensures that the Italian element, from cured meats to specialty cheeses, is given equal weight. Dream Deli’s immediate popularity suggests that Portland was indeed ready for a deli that handles both pastrami and prosciutto with equal reverence.

A Trio of Tenacity: Revival and Global Flavors

The list of recent openings is completed by three establishments that embody the diversity of Portland’s food scene: a resilient comeback, a journey back to Bangkok, and a commitment to French bistro charm.

Epif (404 NE 28th Avenue), the South American-focused vegan restaurant, performed a remarkable feat of revival. After closing briefly in early October, it reopened on November 6 with a refocused, re-energized concept: vegan brunch. The retooled menu taps into Portland’s deep love for weekend brunch, now offering plant-based twists on classic South American and American breakfast dishes, ensuring its continuation as a staple in the Kerns neighborhood.

Meanwhile, Bangkok Belly (3342 SE Belmont Street), which debuted on November 9, brings an authentic perspective from first-time restaurateurs Kat Thirakomen and David Fiske. Their ten years of living in Bangkok inform a menu centered on "skewers, salads, and spirits"—comfort foods that are less about formal dining and more about the vibrant, street-food energy of the Thai capital. Bridgetown Bites noted the couple’s focus on authentic, lesser-seen regional dishes, adding a vital layer of depth to the city's Thai offerings.

Finally, Bar Nouveau (7425 North Leavitt Avenue) in St. Johns, which opened in early October, is the culmination of successful pop-ups by chef Althea Grey Potter and Elizabeth Singer, later joined by Heather Wallberg. The establishment is a “French inspired, farm-driven bistro,” emphasizing a deep, symbiotic relationship with local producers. Notably, Grey Potter has eschewed third-party reservation platforms, instead opting for a personal, text-only reservation system, underscoring the restaurant's commitment to an intimate, curated dining experience over high-volume efficiency. Bar Nouveau is a testament to the fact that in Portland, connection often supersedes convenience.

Collectively, these openings—spanning pizza, deli, Thai, vegan brunch, and French bistro—paint a picture of a Portland food scene that is not just recovering, but boldly innovating, driven by personal narratives and a relentless pursuit of culinary excellence. The city is officially open for business, and the tables are ready.

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