MOSCOW — Amid accelerating alignment between Moscow and Pyongyang, North Korean-run restaurants are thriving in the Russian capital. The number of such establishments has surged from just one to four around the time of North Korea's troop deployment to Russia, though they maintain a strict policy of turning away South Korean customers.

Key Takeaways

Rapid Expansion: The number of North Korean restaurants in Moscow has grown from a single location ("Goryeo") operating since 2009 to four venues today, with "Pyongyang-gwan" and "Seungni" (Victory) opening last year, followed by "Neungrado" earlier this year.
Tightening Restrictions on South Koreans: While South Koreans could occasionally visit these establishments in the past, staff have systematically barred them since the latter half of 2023, citing the policy: "We do not serve South Koreans."
Geopolitical Symbolism: Analysts view the proliferation of these foreign currency-earning businesses as a tangible reflection of the strengthening alliance following North Korea's troop dispatch to support Russian forces in the Kursk region.

On-the-Ground Reality: Doors Shut to South Koreans

Outside the "Seungni" restaurant on Tverskaya Street in central Moscow, young women dressed in traditional hanbok brave the chilly night air to hand out greetings. Inside, European-style decor, a Yamaha drum kit, a white piano, and background tracks of propaganda-style North Korean music create a distinct atmosphere.

However, reporters attempting to enter found that revealing South Korean identity results in an immediate rejection. When asked if South Koreans are welcome, staff members respond uniformly: "We do not serve South Koreans." Similar scenes play out at "Goryeo" in southern Moscow and "Neungrado" in the Lomonosovsky district, where friendly welcomes from waitstaff instantly turn rigid the moment a visitor identifies as South Korean.

Local Reception and UN Sanctions Concerns

Despite the political exclusions, local Russian reviews for these venues remain quite favorable. According to the Yandex mapping service, "Seungni" boasts a 5.0 rating, followed closely by "Pyongyang-gwan" (4.7), "Goryeo" (4.6), and "Neungrado" (4.5).

Patrons have reported ordering items like spicy chicken wing dishes priced at around 1,600 rubles (approx. $26 USD), noting strong flavors and spicy profiles, though staple items like Taedonggang beer are sometimes out of stock, replaced by alternatives like Chinese Tsingtao beer.

Under United Nations Security Council Resolution 2371 and subsequent measures enacted in 2017, member states are strictly prohibited from issuing work permits to North Korean laborers. The expansion and operation of these restaurants in Russia continue to draw international scrutiny as potential violations of these sanctions, highlighting the deepening strategic partnership between Moscow and Pyongyang.

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