Tan Chew Ning, a hawker who served traditional coffee for over 60 years at the Chinatown Complex Food Centre, a famous spot in Singapore's Chinatown, passed away on the 10th at the age of 80.
His son, also named Tan Chew Ning, said in an interview with a local media outlet that his father had been diagnosed with colon cancer due to abdominal pain and constipation symptoms he had been experiencing for about a year. He had undergone surgery and more than six months of chemotherapy and was even declared cancer-free at one point, but the disease relapsed, and he eventually passed away.
Despite this, he did not stop brewing coffee until his final moments. His son said that his father stayed at home on the Wednesday afternoon when his condition worsened, but he collapsed suddenly and died after being transported to the hospital.
A Craftsman's Spirit, Insisting on Traditional Flavors
Tan Chew Ning's love for coffee began when he was 13. He quit his studies and learned the art of coffee-making from his father, mastering the skills at his father's coffee stall on Pagoda Street. Even after losing the stall in 1993, he worked at several other stalls before opening his current 'Tai Hwa Coffee Stall' and dedicating himself to his work. After his wife's passing in 2018, he continued to run the stall alone, reducing his operating hours from 17 to 11 hours a day.
His coffee was not just a beverage; it was a work of art, created by using gas to boil water and sticking to traditional methods like 'Teh Tarik' (pulled tea). His son recalled, "My father was so stubbornly insistent on traditional methods. He lost some customers because of the slow pace, but he strived to preserve the true taste of tradition." In 2013, his craftsmanship was recognized when his stall was selected as one of Singapore's top 8 coffee hawkers at a competition hosted by Singapore's Marigold company.
The Family to Carry on the 60-Year Legacy
News of Mr. Tan's passing was shared via a notice posted at his stall, and a photo uploaded to the 'Hawkers United' Facebook group brought sadness to many. Netizens who remembered him left messages of condolence, saying, "Thank you for his dedication to preserving tradition until the very end," and "I had a coffee just a few weeks ago; I can't believe it." His son revealed, "My 42-year-old wife wants to continue running the stall and carry on my father's wishes," suggesting that his long legacy might not be broken and will continue.
The death of Tan Chew Ning leaves behind a sense of loss—not just of a single coffee craftsman but of a way of life from an entire generation. However, the 60 years of flavor and aroma that began in his hands will now bloom again through a new generation and continue on with the history of Chinatown.
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