The Seorak-dong area becomes a world of utter silence when the rugged mountains are draped in snow. At the entrance of Seorak-dong, Sinheungsa Temple houses Jeokmukdang (Hall of Silent Meditation), and facing it stands Hyangseong Seonwon (Zen Center). Hyangseong Seonwon is stricter than typical meditation halls; it is a Mumungwan (Gate-less Barrier), where practitioners lock themselves in for asceticism. In common Zen centers, they practice Mugeon-jeongjin (devoted silence). Words are unnecessary. It’s not just that one can be without words, but that one must be without them. The Mumungwan is the most intense place of practice, where the door is locked from the outside for a set period (usually several years). A single meal a day is passed through a small hole, seeking enlightenment in extreme isolation.
The name Hyangseong Seonwon originates from Hyangseongsa. It is said that the Great Master Jajang-yulsa founded Hyangseongsa in 652 (Queen Jindeok of Silla), but it burned down nine years later. A three-story stone tower now stands at that site. Later, Master Uisang rebuilt it as Seonjeongsa in a slightly different location, but it was reportedly destroyed again during the Joseon Dynasty. In 1644 (the 22nd year of King Injo), three monks built Sinheungsa (神興寺, Temple of Divine Inspiration) on a site revealed to them by a divine being in a dream. In 1995, the Chinese characters were changed to Sinheungsa (新興寺), meaning "Newly Prospering Temple."
Hyangseong (Fragrant City) in Buddhist scriptures refers to a "City filled with fragrance," said to be the home of Gandharva, the Buddhist deity of music. Gandharva is one of the Eight Legions who protect and praise the Buddha, often depicted flying through the sky playing musical instruments. Wouldn’t such a place be a utopia? Following the valley from the temple toward Ulsanbawi Rock, one finds Gyejoam Hermitage behind the Rocking Stone (Heundeulbawi). It is said that masters like Jajang, Uisang, and Wonhyo attained enlightenment at Gyejoam, which means "inheriting the lineage of the patriarchs."
I visited Seorak-dong hoping for a leisurely view of the snow, but unable to muster the courage to hike, I stopped by Sinheungsa. Seeing the sign for Jeokmukdang, I wondered who wrote it. Even in standard script, it would be hard to decipher, but the cursive style makes it quite imposing. Most pillars have Juryeon (calligraphy plaques). Though some temples provide Korean translations, I wonder how many people actually read them. I recognized some characters but wasn't certain, so I took a photo and asked "Dr. Chae" (ChatGPT), and the answers flowed out.
A line on the plaque, Il-nyeom-bul-saeng-jeon-che-hyeon (一念不生全體現), means: "When not a single thought arises, the entire true nature is revealed." Another, Yuk-geun-jae-dong-pi-un-cha (六根纔動被雲遮), means: "If the six senses (eyes, ears, nose, tongue, body, mind) move even slightly, the truth is hidden as if by clouds." When the mind reaches a state of stillness without thought, the original true mind (Tathata or Buddha-nature) appears, but as soon as senses and thoughts stir, the original mind is obscured like the sun behind clouds. In short, it means to quiet the mind—thus, a place for "silence and deep immersion" (Jeokmukdang) is provided for practice.
Looking for a place to take a photo, I caught the melting snow on a tiled roof. As I zoomed in, I captured droplets of water falling. The curves of the eaves and the Dancheong (traditional coloring) were beautiful, but the snow-covered Seoraksan in the background provided a sharp, vivid contrast against the black tiles. Does the monk confined in his room hear that sound of dripping water? Since they practice silence, it is truly Eoneo-dodan (the path of language is cut off). The path of words must be severed for truth to flash into the mind. This is Don-oh-don-su (Sudden Enlightenment, Sudden Cultivation). It implies that humans originally possess Buddha-nature and can attain the Way in an instant upon realization. Yet, far from the Way, I cannot even dispel ten thousand stray thoughts. Does this agony only end when one falls asleep?
The world of enlightenment or truth is so deep and subtle that it cannot be fully expressed in human language. Bullip-munja (not established on words) teaches that truth cannot be transmitted through text or scriptures alone but must be realized directly. The world is overflowing with words. People pour them out but do not listen. And is it just words? Even while utilizing AI that knows everything, I do not know my own mind. Today, I live carrying ten thousand tons of worry, unable to even manage this 60kg body of mine.
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